No one ever paid attention to Mt. Pinatubo and the nearby Mt. Arayat in the province of Pampanga,
a more prominent yet dormant volcano, prior to that fateful day of 15
June 1991 when finally the mountain woke up and shook the world. Before
the 1991 eruption, scientists thought that the last recorded eruption of
the volcano happened 450 years ago. However, the history of this
mountain dates back to its predecessor, the ancestral Pinatubo whose
remnants now surround the present volcano. The ancestral Pinatubo’s
activity began 1.1 Million years ago, which ended sometime about 45,000
years ago. After 10,000 years of dormancy, modern Pinatubo was born in
what was deemed to be the most explosive eruption in its history and
deposited pyroclastic flow material 100 meters thick on all sides of the
mountain – as much as 25 cubic kilometers of material ejected from its
underlying magma chamber.
Less than a year before the eruption, Central Luzon was rocked by a
powerful 7.7 Magnitude earthquake on 16 July 1990, with the epicenter
about 100 kilometers northeast in the Nueva Ecija capital, Cabanatuan
City which lead some scientists to speculate that the earthquake
triggered the violent eruption. In succeeding months, the volcano
started to make its presence felt, rumbling with a series of
earthquakes, phreatic eruptions and sulfur dioxide emission increasing
significantly.
On 15 June 1991, Mt. Pinatubo, erupted in such a spectacular display of sheer force and ferocity etching its place as the largest eruption of the 20th century after the Novarupta in 1912 and the largest in living memory– with the eruption ejecting 10 cubic kilometers of material, ten times larger than the 1980 eruption of Mount Saint Helens. The enormous volume of lava and ash injected massive amounts of dust and aerosols into the stratosphere, the largest since the eruption of Krakatoa in 1883. This resulted in the reduction of the normal amount of sunlight reaching the Earth’s surface by roughly 10% and the decrease of global temperature to about 0.4°C (0.7°F). The stratospheric cloud persisted in the atmosphere for three years for three years and was visible from space. The ash cloud after the eruption which almost virtually covered the entire island of Luzon, plunging much of Central Luzon into darkness as ash falls were recorded in most of the Philippines, Cambodia, Singapore, Brunei Darussalam, and parts of Malaysia, Vietnam and Thailand. For the coming months, stunning vermilion sunsets were recorded throughout the world. The eruption was so colossal that Pinatubo literally blew its top, with its summit replaced by a caldera 2.5 kilometers wide with the highest point on its rim, some 290 meters lower than its pre-eruption summit of 1,485 meters above sea-level.
To add insult to the horrendous suffering of the people of Central Luzon, the area was hit by a typhoon passing close to the volcano which triggered massive lahar – a lethal mudflow that is composed of pyroclastic materials and water that flowed through the river valleys of the mountain.
Pondering into Zambales: (Mt. Pinatubo West Rim) Mt.
Pinatubo’s west shore, part of the province of Zambales. Shot taken near
the middle of the crater lake. Last time I was here, more than seven
years ago, I can only swim as far as I could, as there were no boats
yet. Its only now that I can take my shots from here and as close as I
would have wanted to. This was supposedly part of the summit of Mt.
Pinatubo (populated by the Aetas). When the volcano erupted, it carved
out this caldera and this rocky mountain summit, which is now filled
with water.
Two For The Road:
(Mt. Pinatubo Trail) In case you want to know how big these canyons and
valleys are, just look at those two trekkers in the middle of the
frame. This area is now within the province of Pampanga and Tarlac
border. The Zambales border is just on the other side of the crater. Mt.
Pinatubo.
Photo by Storm Crypt
Photo by Storm Crypt
The Philippines is part of the Pacific Ring of Fire, a region where
large numbers of volcanic eruptions and earthquakes occur along the
entire Pacific Coast. Pinatubo, is part of a chain of volcanoes on the
western edge of Luzon and is part of the so-called subduction volcanoes-
formed by the Philippine Plate sliding under the Eurasian Plate with
the Manila Trench to the west. It goes without saying that the volcano
lies on a very destructive plate boundary. The mountain is an active
stratovolcano and is located about 3 hours north of Manila and sits on
the Cabusilan Mountain Range on the intersecting borders of Zambales,
Pampanga and Tarlac.
“Pinatubo” means “made grown” in Tagalog and the local dialect of the area, the Sambal and an indigenous group of hunter-gatherer people, the Aetas lived on the slopes of the mountain for centuries to escape the persecution of the lowlanders and the Spaniards. Ramon Magsaysay, the former Philippine President and a Zambales-native even named his C-47 Presidential Plane, “Mt. Pinatubo”. And as if it was some sort of a bad omen, the plane crashed in 1957, killing the President and 24 others onboard
“Pinatubo” means “made grown” in Tagalog and the local dialect of the area, the Sambal and an indigenous group of hunter-gatherer people, the Aetas lived on the slopes of the mountain for centuries to escape the persecution of the lowlanders and the Spaniards. Ramon Magsaysay, the former Philippine President and a Zambales-native even named his C-47 Presidential Plane, “Mt. Pinatubo”. And as if it was some sort of a bad omen, the plane crashed in 1957, killing the President and 24 others onboard
On 15 June 1991, Mt. Pinatubo, erupted in such a spectacular display of sheer force and ferocity etching its place as the largest eruption of the 20th century after the Novarupta in 1912 and the largest in living memory– with the eruption ejecting 10 cubic kilometers of material, ten times larger than the 1980 eruption of Mount Saint Helens. The enormous volume of lava and ash injected massive amounts of dust and aerosols into the stratosphere, the largest since the eruption of Krakatoa in 1883. This resulted in the reduction of the normal amount of sunlight reaching the Earth’s surface by roughly 10% and the decrease of global temperature to about 0.4°C (0.7°F). The stratospheric cloud persisted in the atmosphere for three years for three years and was visible from space. The ash cloud after the eruption which almost virtually covered the entire island of Luzon, plunging much of Central Luzon into darkness as ash falls were recorded in most of the Philippines, Cambodia, Singapore, Brunei Darussalam, and parts of Malaysia, Vietnam and Thailand. For the coming months, stunning vermilion sunsets were recorded throughout the world. The eruption was so colossal that Pinatubo literally blew its top, with its summit replaced by a caldera 2.5 kilometers wide with the highest point on its rim, some 290 meters lower than its pre-eruption summit of 1,485 meters above sea-level.
To add insult to the horrendous suffering of the people of Central Luzon, the area was hit by a typhoon passing close to the volcano which triggered massive lahar – a lethal mudflow that is composed of pyroclastic materials and water that flowed through the river valleys of the mountain.
The eruption of Pinatubo had immediately impacted not only entire
landscapes and the local and global environment: it was also felt in the
economic, political and socio-cultural levels. A massively hot debate
at that time was the termination of the United States Bases Agreement
between the Philippines and the US and the eruption contributed to the
closure of the last vestiges of American military presence in the
country. The American naval base in Subic,
Zambales was 75 kilometers away from the volcano whilst the airbase in
Clark is less than 25 kilometers away in Angeles, Pampanga.
Today, Mt. Pinatubo’s serene cyan-colored crater lake, canyons made of pyroclastic materials, and the growing tropical rainforest canopy covering part of its slopes are a mute testament to its recent explosive past. Treks to the crater lake are organized by tour groups based in Manila like Discover Asia International Travel and Tours and via Sapangbato (Mt. Pinatubo Hot Springs) Angeles, Pampanga or through the Porac Trail in Porac, also in Pampanga. If you are going at it alone, you may contact the Santa Juliana Tourism Council in Capas, Tarlac to help set you up with guides, jeep rentals and homestays. The main jump off point is by a sprawling resort/spa complex at Santa Juliana in Capas, Tarlac, where you get on one of the 4×4 vehicles to take you on one of the interesting rides in the panoramic lahar-hewn landscape, and sometimes meeting an occasional Aeta farmer family pulling a carabao on your way.
The spa complex charges PhP100 per person for the use of its showers, and PhP500 per person for a whole body massage and a chance to relax while being almost entirely buried in ash from the volcano. Contact Pete Won, Spa Manager, Mt. Pinatubo’s Wellness Spa (+63.928. 3410402). You may also contact the DoT Region III Director Ronald Tiotuico, Paskuhan Village, San Fernando, Pampanga, at (+63.45.9612665). In some cases, food is already provided, in some tour packages it is not. Make sure you check with the tour group you are going with if the package includes meals. A guide is definitely a must for novices and newcomers. From Santa Juliana, it is about a 45 minute drive to the base, and depending on weather conditions, the hike could take up to 2 to 2 ½ hours via the longer way and 45 minutes via the Skyway. During rainy months, the Skyway is sometimes closed off due to landslides.
Mountain guides are mandatory, and if you need camping provisions, make sure to arrange this beforehand to avoid the hassle. Municipal permits are required and there is a fee – a fee is usually higher for foreigners than for local residents. Very discriminatory, don’t you think?
One can also kayak and swim in the waters of the crater. Extra precautions are needed as well when swimming, there is a big drop to the bottom from the shore, and a person of a height of at least 5’7” can barely touch the shifty bottom less than 1 meter from the banks. The water temperature is just about lukewarm, and being in a volcano is sulfuric in nature and supposedly good for the skin.
The weather can be fickle at times, in our case, we had scorching heat during our ascent through the lahar plains, and we had a torrential downpour during the descent on the same day. If you do not plan to camp out, Pinatubo can be a good day trip. Make sure you are well-rested the previous day before the trip. Don’t forget to wear comfortable clothes and a sturdy pair of hiking shoes as you have to wade through rivers (shallow but with strong currents, especially during or after the rain.) Do not forget to get a waterproof backpack in case of a downpour or at least bring a Ziploc for your camera and wallet.
Because of the utter importance of Mt. Pinatubo in recent history as well as breathtaking (well, for someone like me, I was literally gasping for breath on some of the incline parts of the ascent) and the beautiful vista that one sees by the crater as well as the almost Alpine-like rock formations is well worth the trek.
Best time to hike is during the dry season (November to May). Avoid going if there are storms around the area, as some areas are prone to landslides and the water in the rivers goes up very fast. Check with the Philippine Atmospheric, Geophysical and Astronomical Services Administration or PAG-ASA for updates in any weather disturbances before you go.
It’s best to bring your own food here. You can pay your guides extra to carry your food for you. There is a restaurant at the spa in Santa Juliana, but the food and the beer was quite overpriced. Bring enough trail food and energy drinks going up the mountain. A supply of ion-based drinks is quite helpful as well. If you bring your own food, make sure you take your own trash bag with you. Do not disrespect the mountain so NEVER litter. Pinatubo is a sacred mountain for the Aetas, therefore respect the surroundings.
Pinatubo nightlife, if you ever plan to spend an night at the crater it consists of quiet bonfires and light alcohol. Even probably jokes, stories shared amongst fellow campers and of course a tune or two- especially if they are Filipinos.
1. Kayak or raft around the crater lake.* (Make sure that you deflate your raft before going up the mountain. We have seen some morons carrying an inflated raft 2 hours up the mountain.)*
2. Have a facial mudpack and a 30 minute soak at the volcanic mud pool.**
3. Visit the local Aeta village.
4. A stop at the Capas Death March Shrine would be perfect as well. This is one of the sites of the infamous Death March during World War 2 in the Philippines, when thousands upon thousands of American and Filipino prisoners of war were forced by the Japanese Imperial Army to march after the fall of Bataan to the different prison camps. The Capas Shrine was built as a memorial to the soldiers who died at the grounds where Camp O’Donnell used to stand. The camp was the final stop of the Death March and where 2,200 Americans and 27,000 Filipinos died.*
*- Highly Recommended
**- Recommended by Locals
1. Mosquitoes, ants and bugs! – bring a hefty tube of bug repellent to be sure especially if you plan to do a side trip to the beach.
2. UV rays and a hat– Apply ample sun protection and sunglasses as the sun can be strong during midday.
3. Keep a watch on your possessions and don’t stray too much from your group.
4. Dehydration – keep yourself amply hydrated with ion-based drinks and with trail-food as well as never forget to bring a towel and a change of clothes.
If you are not going with a tour group, there are buses going or passing through Angeles from the different bus terminals in Manila (Buendia and Taft Avenues in Manila; Araneta Center in Cubao, Quezon City and along EDSA Kamuning-Kamias). From there, take a northbound jeepney from Angeles and ask the driver to drop you at the intersection for Santa Juliana. Take a tricycle into town and look for the Santa Juliana Tourism Council at the Municipal Hall where you can register and arrange for your guides and provisions.
Today, Mt. Pinatubo’s serene cyan-colored crater lake, canyons made of pyroclastic materials, and the growing tropical rainforest canopy covering part of its slopes are a mute testament to its recent explosive past. Treks to the crater lake are organized by tour groups based in Manila like Discover Asia International Travel and Tours and via Sapangbato (Mt. Pinatubo Hot Springs) Angeles, Pampanga or through the Porac Trail in Porac, also in Pampanga. If you are going at it alone, you may contact the Santa Juliana Tourism Council in Capas, Tarlac to help set you up with guides, jeep rentals and homestays. The main jump off point is by a sprawling resort/spa complex at Santa Juliana in Capas, Tarlac, where you get on one of the 4×4 vehicles to take you on one of the interesting rides in the panoramic lahar-hewn landscape, and sometimes meeting an occasional Aeta farmer family pulling a carabao on your way.
The spa complex charges PhP100 per person for the use of its showers, and PhP500 per person for a whole body massage and a chance to relax while being almost entirely buried in ash from the volcano. Contact Pete Won, Spa Manager, Mt. Pinatubo’s Wellness Spa (+63.928. 3410402). You may also contact the DoT Region III Director Ronald Tiotuico, Paskuhan Village, San Fernando, Pampanga, at (+63.45.9612665). In some cases, food is already provided, in some tour packages it is not. Make sure you check with the tour group you are going with if the package includes meals. A guide is definitely a must for novices and newcomers. From Santa Juliana, it is about a 45 minute drive to the base, and depending on weather conditions, the hike could take up to 2 to 2 ½ hours via the longer way and 45 minutes via the Skyway. During rainy months, the Skyway is sometimes closed off due to landslides.
Mountain guides are mandatory, and if you need camping provisions, make sure to arrange this beforehand to avoid the hassle. Municipal permits are required and there is a fee – a fee is usually higher for foreigners than for local residents. Very discriminatory, don’t you think?
One can also kayak and swim in the waters of the crater. Extra precautions are needed as well when swimming, there is a big drop to the bottom from the shore, and a person of a height of at least 5’7” can barely touch the shifty bottom less than 1 meter from the banks. The water temperature is just about lukewarm, and being in a volcano is sulfuric in nature and supposedly good for the skin.
The weather can be fickle at times, in our case, we had scorching heat during our ascent through the lahar plains, and we had a torrential downpour during the descent on the same day. If you do not plan to camp out, Pinatubo can be a good day trip. Make sure you are well-rested the previous day before the trip. Don’t forget to wear comfortable clothes and a sturdy pair of hiking shoes as you have to wade through rivers (shallow but with strong currents, especially during or after the rain.) Do not forget to get a waterproof backpack in case of a downpour or at least bring a Ziploc for your camera and wallet.
Why Go
Because of the utter importance of Mt. Pinatubo in recent history as well as breathtaking (well, for someone like me, I was literally gasping for breath on some of the incline parts of the ascent) and the beautiful vista that one sees by the crater as well as the almost Alpine-like rock formations is well worth the trek.
Best Time to Visit
Best time to hike is during the dry season (November to May). Avoid going if there are storms around the area, as some areas are prone to landslides and the water in the rivers goes up very fast. Check with the Philippine Atmospheric, Geophysical and Astronomical Services Administration or PAG-ASA for updates in any weather disturbances before you go.
PKTan: DO NOT attempt to go trekking
without checking the weather situation, and do get local guides if you
are not familiar with the terrain! Recent news – 2 Canadians, Filipino killed in Tarlac flood. Better to be safe than sorry!
Where to Stay
Please double-check with your travel agency on where to stay if you decide to go down the mountain and not to camp by the crater lake. Accommodation is also offered in Peniel but details are sketchy and some of them require that unmarried couples are not to share the same room – which I think is a load of crap. For more choices, check with the Department of Tourism-Region III (+63.45.9612665/+63.45.9612612/).
Where & What to Eat
It’s best to bring your own food here. You can pay your guides extra to carry your food for you. There is a restaurant at the spa in Santa Juliana, but the food and the beer was quite overpriced. Bring enough trail food and energy drinks going up the mountain. A supply of ion-based drinks is quite helpful as well. If you bring your own food, make sure you take your own trash bag with you. Do not disrespect the mountain so NEVER litter. Pinatubo is a sacred mountain for the Aetas, therefore respect the surroundings.
Nightlife
Pinatubo nightlife, if you ever plan to spend an night at the crater it consists of quiet bonfires and light alcohol. Even probably jokes, stories shared amongst fellow campers and of course a tune or two- especially if they are Filipinos.
My to do List
1. Kayak or raft around the crater lake.* (Make sure that you deflate your raft before going up the mountain. We have seen some morons carrying an inflated raft 2 hours up the mountain.)*
2. Have a facial mudpack and a 30 minute soak at the volcanic mud pool.**
3. Visit the local Aeta village.
4. A stop at the Capas Death March Shrine would be perfect as well. This is one of the sites of the infamous Death March during World War 2 in the Philippines, when thousands upon thousands of American and Filipino prisoners of war were forced by the Japanese Imperial Army to march after the fall of Bataan to the different prison camps. The Capas Shrine was built as a memorial to the soldiers who died at the grounds where Camp O’Donnell used to stand. The camp was the final stop of the Death March and where 2,200 Americans and 27,000 Filipinos died.*
*- Highly Recommended
**- Recommended by Locals
Stay Away From
1. Mosquitoes, ants and bugs! – bring a hefty tube of bug repellent to be sure especially if you plan to do a side trip to the beach.
2. UV rays and a hat– Apply ample sun protection and sunglasses as the sun can be strong during midday.
3. Keep a watch on your possessions and don’t stray too much from your group.
4. Dehydration – keep yourself amply hydrated with ion-based drinks and with trail-food as well as never forget to bring a towel and a change of clothes.
Getting There
If you are not going with a tour group, there are buses going or passing through Angeles from the different bus terminals in Manila (Buendia and Taft Avenues in Manila; Araneta Center in Cubao, Quezon City and along EDSA Kamuning-Kamias). From there, take a northbound jeepney from Angeles and ask the driver to drop you at the intersection for Santa Juliana. Take a tricycle into town and look for the Santa Juliana Tourism Council at the Municipal Hall where you can register and arrange for your guides and provisions.
No comments:
Post a Comment